Then the Load is of the Switch goes up to the Fan. To go this route you would have your Incoming HOT (Black/line) branch in the Box, one will go up to the Fan, the other will go to the Switch. by a hard-wired wall switch and the remote, and the fan wired hot and controlled by the remote." sounds like your first option? You can Control the Light with the Dimmer hard wired switch and the Fan with the Remote, though you will need two HOT legs going to the Fan from the Switch box. You mentioned in your second choice: "light. If you want to use the Remote, then you have the issue of having to find it to turn everything on. I've attached pictures of the switch hardware that I'm working with (alternative suggestions welcomed).The fan, remote, and canopy receiver are all Hunter.I have access to the entire circuit, fan junction box, and wall switch from the ceiling/attic above.The current wiring is with 12/2 romex (with ground).So my second desire, which I hope is possible, is to have the light controlled (on/off/dim) by a hard-wired wall switch and the remote, and the fan wired hot and controlled by the remote. What I would like to do is have a wall switch that will turn the fan and light on and off separately, AND have the remote in the room that also has full control to turn the light and fan on and off, but I don't think that is possible. This is great, except for walking into the room when it is dark as I knock everything over searching for the remote. I currently have a remote and receiver in the canopy. And a pull chain is not an option or a feature of the fan. The room is large and with a high ceiling so getting up to change the fan setting and dimming the light is a pain. The current version 2.0 of the library (same link) is capable of receiving codes as well, with apart from the 433MHz-receiver no extra hardware at all! Included in the library are some examples and a photo of the (very easy) set-up.I have installed a ceiling fan/light in my living room where only a light fixture used to be. But other marques use different trits, don't have groups at all or use the term information in the start post is a bit outdated, but I can't edit it anymore. KaKu for example designates 4 trits for "group", and 4 trits for "device". They are all based on the PT2262-technique, and thus have 12 trits data words. This will transmit a signal on pin 11, where receivedCode and period are the values you've already "device", "address" etc are arbitrary terms used by the remotes themselves. Relevant code sniplet, based on the example: If you happen to have a second arduino, you could use show_received_code to verify that the arduino-synthesized code is identical to the real remote.Īn digital oscilloscope or data logger is quite handy in this kind of situations, as you can monitor the actual inputs and outputs of the transmitter and have a look at the Retransmitter-example, which simply retransmits a (recognized) received code.įor transmission you don't need special interrupts, other than the one Arduino uses for delay(). Thanks In I don't have a clue why it doesn't work. Would I need the interrupts? a receiver wont be required. These are the Transmitted codes for the Remote Control Switch 3-pack From Clas Ohson The RX And TX Modules, Plugs and Remotes are all 433mhz AM I have a few RF Remote Relay Plugs and have managed to read and log the codes using the Show_received_code.pde. However, some comments in this code is in Dutch. I also have a sketch to receive and decode these signals on the arduino, but this requires some extra hardware. Perhaps they operate at different frequencies (868MHz?), which might work well. I really have no idea if these kind of products sold elsewere use the same principles. The base class can easily be extended to accomodate other (similar) remotes. These remote all use the same principles, and vary only in timing and specific codes. The library can simulate various remotes sold here in the Netherlands. These remotes operate at 433MHz.Ī while ago, I made a simple library to be used in conjunction with the common 433MHz RF modules to simulate these remotes, and to use an Arduino board to switch my lights. Here in the Netherlands several stores sell RF remote switches, so you can switch lights etc.
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